Dianthus plants are a great addition to any garden and are very easy to take care of. They have a strong clove smell and their flowers are very cottage-like, making them a great choice for anyone looking to add a touch of country charm to their garden.
Here are a few more reasons to grow dianthus in your garden:
- Blooms in nearly every color, from white to almost black.
- Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds, as well as pollinating insects.
- Comes in a range of shapes and sizes, from low groundcovers to upright varieties.
- Uses in the garden include border displays, rockeries, containers and cutting gardens.
DIANTHUS BASICS
Zones:
3-9, differs by variety
Native region:
Native to Europe and Asia.
Types:
There are Dianthus species that are annual, perennial, and biennial. Some common names you may have heard associated with the genus are __________.
- Pinks are perennial forms. They are evergreen or semi-evergreen. The common name “pink” is derived from the frilly edges of the petals, which look like they were cut with pinking shears.
- Sweet William is a short-lived perennial most often grown as a biennial or annual.
- Carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus.) are a favorite of florists for their long stems and extended bloom time.
Height/Spread:
The height of the plant depends on the variety, with some reaching 4 inches and others reaching 36 inches. The plant also varies in width, with some varieties spreading 4 inches and others spreading 24 inches.
Exposure:
Blooms will be the best with six hours of full sun, but can also manage with partial shade.
Bloom time:
This plant blooms from spring to early summer, and some of them will bloom intermittently or continuously through summer and fall.
Color and characteristics:
The flowers are either single, semi-double, or double, and have frilly petals. They come in almost every color, except blue. There are also bicolored flowers with patterns. The leaves are strappy and look like grass, and they come in shades of green, blue-green, or silver-green.
Toxicity:
If you touch Dianthus plants, your skin may feel itchy for a few minutes. Some people may be more sensitive to this than others. If your pet eats any part of the plant, they may get sick.
Deer resistance:
Dianthus are seldom bothered by deer.
Caring for Dianthus
In order for your dianthus plants to thrive, you will need to take proper care of them. This includes mass plantings and mounding perennial plants.
Sun and Temperature
Many plants in the dianthus genus do best when they receive full sun throughout the day. They can still thrive in partial shade, as long as they get at least six hours of light each day. However, too much shade can make the flowers less vibrant in color. Most dianthus plants can tolerate cold temperatures down to zone 3, but some may go dormant in temperatures above 85 degrees. A few species in this genus can still produce flowers in hot weather, though.
A dianthus plant does not survive well in very cold winters, and a light frost may cause it to die. However, a thick layer of organic mulch suppresses weeds and keeps the roots alive during hard freezes and freezing winters. In snap freezes of early autumn and early spring, cover your dianthus with leaves or a shade cloth to keep it safe from extreme weather.
Water and Humidity
To prevent mildew from forming on the blue-green foliage of your dianthus, water it at the base to keep the foliage dry. Dianthus does not like wet feet, so make sure there is no standing water around it. Water it in the morning or at dusk with soaker hoses, drip irrigation, or a watering can, giving it at least 1 inch of water per week. I’ve found that well-established and well-mulched plants can handle less water than that. In times of ample rain, there is no need to add more water.
Soil
When growing dianthus, it is important to make sure that the soil is well-drained. The plant prefers rich soils or those with lots of compost worked in. Sandy soil is also good for the plant, as long as it has enough nutrients. The plant prefers acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 to 5.8.
Fertilizing
Prior to planting, mix a slow-release organic fertilizer and compost into the soil if you want to stimulate flowering. The fertilizer should be 5-10-10 slow-release granular fertilizer for most types of carnations and pinks. For a balanced fertilizer in liquid form, reapply every 4-6 weeks to encourage additional flowering.
Pruning
Pinch off the spent blooms on dianthus just above the topmost set of leaves to stop the plant from forming seeds. This may also encourage a new flush of growth and extend the bloom time of your plants. Once the first flush of flowering has ended (usually early summer), prune the plant down using a pair of clean garden shears or pinking shears. Remove up to half of the plant’s height to tell your dianthus plants they need to bush out more and stimulate a new set of flower buds.
It is important to trim leggy or overgrown stems during the summer in order to keep the shape of the plant visually appealing. Spent flowers should be removed continuously in order to prevent spreading and seeding. Alternatively, you can leave them if you want more dianthus flowers next year. In the fall, dianthus dies back naturally. Trim your dianthus plants to 1-2 inches tall and remove the dead foliage or evergreen foliage, depending on the variety. Doing this will allow them to overwinter and start a fresh flush of dark green foliage in the spring.
Propagating Dianthus
To ensure that the new plant is identical to its parent plant, propagate by stem cuttings. Take cuttings on a day when you have watered the parent plant the day before, in either June or July. Do this on an overcast day, to help reduce shock to the parent plant.
To prepare for planting, mix horticultural sand and vermiculite in equal parts in small pots. The cutting you intend to plant should have several well-developed leaf nodes. Cut a quarter-inch below a leaf node, and coat the cut end—leaf node included—in rooting hormone powder. Using a pencil or stick, make a hole in the starter medium and insert the cutting, packing more of the planting medium around it to support the cutting and keep it upright. Keep the soil moist, and place the pot in a sunny location. Once roots have formed and new green foliage has begun to grow, use a dome to maintain humidity around the cutting.
To grow dianthus in new areas, divide the plant every few years in early or late spring. Water the plant well the day before to reduce transplant shock. Gently dig up the dianthus and use your fingers to separate off three to six-inch segments. Replant these in prepared soil and water again to help them to settle into their new place. This method is most successful with perennial dianthus. Generally, hardy perennials will have the easiest time getting established and flourishing.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT DIANTHUS
Here are some factors to consider when there are so many choices.
For bedding displays and borders:
Establish a border by edging it with low-growing perennial varieties. Fill in gaps between established perennials with annual or biennial seeds.
For containers, rock gardens, and small yards:
Dwarf and mat-forming types of plants will stay small and not overwhelm a space. Combine them in containers, rockeries, or beds with other small annuals or perennials that thrive in the same growing conditions.
For cutting gardens and large-scale landscapes:
Pick out Sweet William or carnation plants that are tall and plant them in either rows or clusters for the best look. The stately stems and long bloom time make these ideal for floral arrangements.
For areas of the garden that you want to keep low maintenance:
When picking a plant to ensure it will come back every year, go for a perennial. Some good options are D. gratianopolitanus, D. plumarius, D. barbatus, and D. chinensis.
DIANTHUS LANDSCAPING TIPS
Here are some tips to consider when you have so many choices.
For bedding displays and borders:
Consider adding low-growing perennial plants to the edge of a border. You can also add annual or biennial seeds in between established perennials to fill any gaps.
For containers, rock gardens, and small yards:
6. Dwarf and mat-forming types of plant will stay smaller in size and will not take over a space. They can be combined with other small annuals or perennials that grow well in similar conditions in containers, rockeries, or beds.
For cutting gardens and large-scale landscapes:
There are two types of flowers that are tall and suitable for floral arrangements: Sweet William and carnations. Plant them in rows or in large groups for the best look.
There are many ways to incorporate this beloved heirloom into any landscape. Here’s how:
- Mass in a bed along a patio or deck, where the spicy fragrance can be enjoyed up close.
- Plant alpine types in a rock garden with other plants such as columbine, sedums, thyme, creeping phlox, and lamb’s ear.
- Dress up an entryway or balcony with a decorative container and plant with dianthus in varying colors, or with annuals such as sweet alyssum, lobelia, and dusty miller for months of continuous color.
- Place window boxes on a side of your house that receives full sun and plant dianthus in cheerful colors for a nostalgic, cottage-style effect.
- Line a pathway with shorter varieties that bloom at different times for a season-long display of color.
- Convert a raised bed into a cutting garden and plant carnation types with long stems. Add other cutting flowers such as dahlias, sweet peas, zinnias, and sunflowers for freshly cut bouquets through summer and fall.
- Combine in a mixed border with other cottage-style plants such as cranesbill geranium, coral bells, iris, roses, columbine, artemisia, and lavender.
Troubleshooting
We’ve discussed how to take care of dianthus flowers, so now let’s talk about any problems you might have with them. Although there are many pests and diseases to be aware of, you may not encounter any of them.
Growing Problems
Many seedlings die quickly and inexplicably, which is often caused by a lack of moisture. Some dianthus plants require higher humidity to develop properly. To remedy this, check the status of the plant regularly and mist it with a spray bottle from a distance so the tender seedling doesn’t bend with the force of the spray.
If you want to prevent your pinks from self-seeding, you should deadhead them once the small flowers fade. This will stop them from producing seeds. If you don’t do this, the seeds will spread everywhere and you will have volunteers scattered all over your yard.
If your bloom time is short, you may have chosen a short-lived perennial rather than a mat-forming variety. Short-lived perennial dianthus, like Sweet William or Old Fashioned Pinks, is great in cut flower arrangements rather than flower beds.
Pests
Any insects that cut plants are a problem. Cutworms are especially notable, but the cabbage moth is an occasional problem. For both of these, use bacillus thuringiensis or Bt spray to kill off any interlopers. I recommend a liquid application lightly misted onto the plants to repel cutting insects.
Spider mites are tiny creatures that can cause big problems for your plants. If you see a fine web on your plant with either brown or white spots, this is a sign of spider mite infestation. The good news is that a light application of neem oil can help. Neem oil is a natural repellant for spider mites, and will also kill them off. Just be sure to not spray neem oil when it’s above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or during peak pollinator periods.
If you have aphids on your plants, spray them with water and follow up with neem oil. If you have regular problems with aphids and spider mites, mist your plants every few days to once a week.
Sow bugs are similar to pill bugs, but they are not exactly the same. They are a related species and will sometimes eat plants when they are in large numbers. To prevent them from eating your plants, remove debris around your dianthus in the growing season and trim bottom leaves that touch the ground.
That’s it!
Once you have planted your dianthus, you will need to take care of it.
